Lisbon: The Basics

20160407_153024A few days before I left for Lisbon, Portugal, I started wondering whether I should have chosen an alternate location for vacation. I didn’t know much about the culture of Portugal, and I had only learned a small bit of Portuguese. Weirdly, it’s something that happens a lot: right before a vacation, it’s second-guessing time.

As it turns out, it wasn’t language or culture that I had to worry about. Instead I should have been concerned about all the hills. There’s a reason that Lisbon is called the City of Seven Hills, and “hill” is perhaps understating the issue. Everything seems to be at the top of a steep incline, and even going downhill feels like it’s walking uphill.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The flight from Philadelphia to Lisbon is six or seven hours long, and my husband and I managed to snag coach seats on the very first flight of the season on my husband’s airline (the Lisbon flight is seasonal). It was a non-rev flyers dream: 50 unsold seats, so we had a whole row to ourselves. The flight had only minimal turbulence and passed quite quickly.

Lisbon is a wonderful city in terms of public transit from the airport. The red line of the metro picks up right at the airport and will get you into town in about thirty minutes or so. We rented an Airbnb apartment in the Barrio Alto neighborhood, so we transferred to the green line at the Alameda station and took the train to the Baixa-Chiado station.

So, here’s where I discovered the sheer horror of Lisbon hills. It’s always a bit difficult to orient yourself in a new city, right? Had I any sense of direction whatsoever, I would have known not to exit the station toward Baixa, or the lower town. But yeah, that’s what we did (instead of taking the three or four escalators up toward Chiado, or the upper town), and it necessitated Craig and I hiking up a million sets of stairs and hills, blindly following the tiny Google Maps arrow on my phone. We finally reached Camões Square in the upper town, and I had to sit down and take a freaking break. I was sweaty and gross and tired and kind of delirious.

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But that wasn’t the end! Oh no. Our apartment was up another two blocks on a very steep road. And then up five flights of stairs.

I considered never leaving the apartment. You can visit Europe and never leave your apartment, right? Right?

That all sounds pretty hideous, and maybe like I hated Lisbon. In truth, I love Lisbon. I loved our apartment, five floor walk-up notwithstanding. I loved the Barrio Alto area, too. I got all sorts of ideas for a new novel. In fact, there was nothing about Lisbon that I disliked, other than I had to leave after five days.

Lisbon is all terra cotta roofs and tiled building faces, cobbled streets and narrow tiled sidewalks, fresh seafood and wine, blue skies and pasteis de nata. There’ll be a few posts about Lisbon coming up, but here are a few tips/suggestions for visiting Lisbon:

  • Language–obviously, the language is Portuguese. I learned a little bit of Portuguese (numbers; polite words; how to ask for a beer, a table for two, a glass of wine, etc), and I’m glad that I did, but I also found it very difficult to learn. Duolingo offers only Brazilian Portuguese, and there’s a big difference between Brazilian and European Portuguese. I have a basic knowledge of Spanish, so I thought maybe it wouldn’t be totally dissimilar, but Portuguese pronunciation is a bit hard. All that said, everyone I spoke to under the age of 35 knew at least a little English, and most of them knew English quite well. Older people tended not to know any English or very, very little. Also, we took a cab twice, and neither driver knew English. The moral of the story: if you don’t learn any Portuguese, be sure to have the address of anywhere you want to go written down to show your cab driver.
  • Restaurants–there’s a lot of seafood in Lisbon. A lot. But there’s also tons of other types of food–Portugal was certainly in the empire business once upon a time, so there’s a thriving immigrant population in Lisbon. Almost every restaurant we went to, no matter the neighborhood, the menu was also translated into English and sometimes French. We went to a few higher end restaurants, but we found the food to be much better and far less expensive at smaller places (tascas). Our favorite was a place about three blocks from our apartment, called Bar Nelson. Two dinners of whole grilled and fresh caught fish with vegetables, fresh bread, fresh and aged cheeses, and a small jar of wine (about four glasses worth) for maybe 25 euros, tops.
  • 20160410_100432Pasteis de Nata–These pastries (sort of like creme brulee in a crust, but without the hard sugar topping) are everywhere. Everywhere! Most guidebooks will recommend heading to the Belem neighborhood to a place called Pasteis de Belem, which makes the oldest de nata recipe in Lisbon. That said, a local recommend Manteigaria, which is maybe a block from the Chiado side of the Baixa-Chiado metro station exit. The de natas from Manteigaria are stellar. They’re like a euro per de nata.
  • Public transit–as I mentioned, the metro is great and easy to use, but it doesn’t go all the places you might want to go. There are also trams, both modern-looking trams (more like what you might see in Houston) and absolutely ancient trams (like the original street cars in San Francisco). The 12 goes to Belem along the waterfront, and the 28 runs through a few different neighborhoods, including Barrio Alto; we took the 28 up to Castelo de Sao Jorge. There are also elevadors, which are short-distance trams that connect the lower town to the upper town. They generally only travel about three blocks, but they’re totally worth it to avoid hiking up steep staircases. And there’s also an actual elevator–the Santa Justa lift–that connects the lower town to the upper town, plus the escalators in Baixa-Chiado metro station. There are also buses, but we never used them. I highly recommend getting a handle on the public transit to save you hiking, climbing, etc., and your legs and feet will thank you for it later. Oh, and buy a 50 cent Viva Viagem card at any metro station–you can load it up and reload it with 10 or 20 euros worth of transit that works on the metro, trams, elevadors, and elevators. A good map that shows the locations of all that (except the buses) is the Streetwise map.

We were sad to return to the States after a fantastic five days, but the good news is that we loved it so much we’re sure to return. I’d love to spend some time in Porto and Colares, maybe even spend another day in Sintra.

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I’m a Vermicious Knid

Chocolate is one of my very favorite things. Not all chocolate, of course; I admit to being a Grade A Chocolate Snob. And that, my friend, is how some of my travels devolved into chocolate tourism. Twice last year I flew places, at least in part, to buy chocolate.

First, there was a day in Toronto in November. I know what you must be thinking–Toronto does not exactly have the reputation of a chocolate mecca. And, really, I didn’t go there for only chocolate. My friend Randi lives there, so I was mostly going to visit her. But she suggested visiting SOMA Chocolatemaker, and who am I to say no to chocolate? As it turns out, it was one of the highlights of the trip. I spent an inordinate amount of money on chocolate, including several bars of their Stratus chocolate, which won silver in the 2015 World final of the International Chocolate Awards; a half dozen truffles; and a container of Mexican drinking chocolate mix. Stellar, on all accounts.

Toronto is fairly close–it’s less than an hour of flight time for me. Not to negate the chocolate if it’s too easily procured, of course. I’m kind of looking forward to heading back, both to see Randi and to buy more chocolate from SOMA.

Second, there was a weekend jaunt to Brussels about a week before Christmas. I told people it was mostly about seeing the fabulous Christmas market in Brussels (because I’d never been to a European Christmas market before), but it was mostly about the chocolate. I’d been to Brussels last year overnight and brought back some amazing chocolate, but there wasn’t nearly enough time to fully explore all that Brussels has to offer.

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Wittamer, Neuhaus, Pierre Marcolini, Passion, Laurent Gerbaud, Jean-Philippe Darcis, Galler, and even Godiva. We visited them all (well, okay, not Godiva . . . after all, I can walk down the street here at home and lay hands on Godiva). But my very favorite was Elisabeth, a shop that collects the best artisanal sweets from around Belgium. There are four locations in Brussels, each with its own specialty.

20151212_140422Since my husband and I were visiting the Christmas market, we headed to the two shops located near Grand Place, on Rue au Beurre. One store featured gigantic meringues in the window, and they looked so amazing I wanted to buy them all. Meringues and planes don’t mix, though. That shop had packaged goods, lots of breads and cakes. The second shop was mostly chocolates and candy, including Cuperdons, which I love. They also had the most fantastic handmade melo cakes. Depending on where you live, you might know them better as Malomars. It was heavenly.

Let’s just say that I flew back to the States with a lot of really great chocolate, and the people with whom I exchange holiday gifts received some of it. Of course, now that I’m out of chocolate, I wish I would have both bought more and given away less. Sixteen hours in the air for 24 hours in Brussels? Totally worth it.

And not just for the chocolate, I might add. The Winter Wonders holiday market was beautiful, too [click each photo to embiggen].*

Grand Place Winder Wonder market Winter Wonder market Grand Place Winter Wonder market

*Weirdly, both trips were marked somewhat by terrorism. I was in Toronto the night of the Paris attacks, and my husband and I were in Brussels about two weeks or so after Brussels had raised its terror alert level and put the city in lockdown. Maybe unsurprisingly, the Brussels trip was the one where a response to the threat was more obvious. Interestingly, though, it was at the Philadelphia airport where security seemed much higher. There were security officers with sniffer dogs on the jetway to get onto the plane, but no clear uptick in security at the Brussels airport–it seemed business as usual, at least to the naked eye. There were a few heavily armed soldier types at the Christmas market itself (which was packed with people), but I’m unsure if that’s a real difference from other years. The fact is, though, that I didn’t feel unsafe or threatened at any time.

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In Tribute

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New Year, Old Adventures

Nicole and Craig go glacier hiking

Take adventure where you find it. For me, there were great opportunities to discover last year, and part of that was traveling to do research for writing. That’s especially true of my trip to Iceland last October.

There’s been a lot written about Iceland recently, particularly how it’s the new it destination. Grapevine has a great article about the rise of tourism in the country, crediting music for the boom, but there’s been something crazy like a 20 percent increase just over the last five years. I read somewhere that Iceland is the number one destination for travel bloggers. It’s justified, is the thing. I had an amazing time and would return in a heartbeat–and not just because the novel I’m currently outlining benefited from my trip.

So, what’s so great about Iceland? Scenery, people, art, and food. That pretty much sums it up. But before I head into opinion, here are the facts:

  • Visit date: October 26-29, 2015
  • Housing: Airbnb, 1 bedroom (about a block from The Sun Voyager sculpture, and right around the corner from KEX Hostel)
  • Airline: WOW Air (PHL-BOS-KEF-BOS-PHL)
  • Weather: The temperature ranged from 30 degrees F. to 50 degrees F. It was sunny with blue skies on our first day and overcast the rest of the time. It did pour down rain once or twice, but there was no day where it rained the whole time. We also got a taste of the famous Iceland winds one day, but it was location-specific.

Scenery
Most people think of Iceland and immediately assume I’m going to talk about the Aurora Borealis. And, well, I guess I am right now, but sadly we did not actually see the Aurora. The Kp-index dropped to zero the second we set foot on Iceland and pretty much stayed there. Alas: no lights for us. But it’s not like that soured the trip for us–the lights would have been a bonus. I mean, come one–look at Reykjavik. This is the view from the top of Hallgrimskirka, the big, Lego-esque Lutheran church in the middle of the downtown area . . .

View from Hallgrimskirka

My husband and I took the tiny little elevator up to the bell tower of the church and could not believe how beautiful the views were. But Reykjavik on a sunny day is nothing compared to some of the other scenery (click to embiggen):

Lava field outside Reykjavik Reykjavik bay lighthouse Vik beach Solheimajokull glacier waterfall Houses in Reykjavik

We were able to visit Vik beach (an amazingly gorgeous black sand beach that is very, very windy), several massive waterfalls, Solheimajokull glacier, and a lava field outside Reykjavik for a lava tube cave hike. The glacier hike was a definite highlight. After all, it’s not every day that you get to strap on crampons and wield an ice axe so you can cling, feet-first, to a glacial tongue. It was fairly terrifying since there are basically no safety lines (and a lot of crevices to fall into, etc), and it’s hard to learn to trust crampons, but it was also one of the coolest things I’ve ever done. Plus, I was able to spend some time on the hike with one of the guides, who has inspired an upcoming character.

One thing of note: we did make a stop off at the Blue Lagoon on our way to the airport on the last day. My husband enjoyed it, but I was less impressed. I mean, it’s a hot bath with hundreds of your closest friends . . . and most of the Americans have managed to avoid taking the mandated shower prior to entering (you know, because we’re all such prudes about nudity). I know because as a writer, I’m a champion eavesdropper–and most of the Americans I overhead felt the need to brag about it. Gross. But the setting (out in the middle of a lava field) was very pretty.

People
Icelanders have a reputation for being tall and blonde. Some of them were. What’s strange is that the guys were blonde but didn’t seem extraordinarily tall, while a lot of the women were dark-haired and seemed fairly Amazonian. Regardless, they were all incredibly nice. There wasn’t a single Icelander we interacted with who didn’t give off an air of kindness. Maybe the huge tourist boom hasn’t reached peak saturation yet . . . or maybe Icelanders are just genuinely nice. After all, Iceland is regularly voted one of the happiest countries on Earth, and it always tops the list of the safest places.

The tour guide for our lava tube caving excursion told us that the Icelandic happiness quotient, though, is all about having low expectations. She gave us a fairy tale that all Icelandic children are told, something about parents killing their children by throwing them in the river (yes, really). Then she just shrugged and said, “If you wake up in the morning, and your parents haven’t drowned you in the river, you’re happy.”

Hey, whatever works.

Art
Reykjavik artReykjavik has a lot of public art. In early October last year, the big music festival, Airwaves, committed to creating ten big murals as part of the party. But there was art even before that. Some of it is murals, some are weird little storefront displays, and some are oddball exhibits on fences.

On our first night in Reykjavik, my husband wasn’t feeling very well. I ended up canceling our plans and walking around town by myself. It was during my hike around the streets that I discovered quite a few of the murals and exhibits for myself. And maybe it’s just how laid back everything feels, but I felt rather creative myself. All I wanted to do is sit down in a cafe with my laptop and write. Of course, I didn’t have my laptop, so I settled for brainstorming about a new novel and people watching while I sipped a mocha in bookshop on the main drag.

Iceland is a place that breeds creativity. Allegedly, one in ten Icelanders will publish at least one book during their lifetime, and there are an awful lot of them who play instruments and are in a band, too.

Food
Iceland is known for food, all right, but not exactly the kind you’re dying to eat. Fermented shark (hakarl), anyone? I was faced with the opportunity to try it at a tiny little Icelandic tapas joint one night and declined. I did try the marinated minke whale, though, which was tasty. But Fear Factor-esque food is not all there is to eat in Iceland.

Icelandic tapas

I’ve seen people say that food in Iceland is expensive. That’s not really true. Granted, if you live on fast food, real food–any real food–will seem expensive by comparison. That’s not to say we didn’t have an expensive-ish meal. We at DILL–seven courses are 11,900 krona per person, or about $96. All things considered, though, it was a bargain. It was really seven courses, plus six “snacks” (appetizers). It’s tons of food–and really amazing food at that. There was wild boar, lamb hearts, goose, reindeer, lots of fish, and two dessert courses, but my favorite was a tiny purse made of a thinly shaved beet slice, inside of which was liver mousse and roasted yeast. There are also lots of fish and chips joints scattered around the city, and those are great–mostly because of the freshly caught fish that is so widely available.

And then there’s the skyr. If you’re not familiar, it’s more or less yogurt–sort of a cross between regular and Greek yogurt. I don’t know what makes it different, really, but I love it. It was the thing I wanted for breakfast, and I still want it. The only thing I can find that’s close is Siggi’s yogurt, which is “Icelandic style.” It just doesn’t taste the same, though.

So, there you have it: my Iceland trip. My husband and I agree that we’d love to go back. In the spring next time, I think, so that we can rent a car and drive the ring road all around Iceland. True, there’s no chance of seeing the Aurora Borealis in the spring and summer, but that’s okay.

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How to Save a Marriage: A Star Wars Love Story

A house divided against itself cannot stand. That’s what I’m facing today. No, it is not that my husband and I are political or religious opposites. We do not argue about which cheesesteak join is better or about the superiority of plain or peanut M&Ms. My friends, my husband is a Star Wars supernerd, while I have never seen any of the movies.

It’s true. I’m a woman in her forties who has yet to have the life-changing experience of the Star Wars movies. Well, according to my husband, the life-changing bit is only movies three through six, the original trilogy. As he so eloquently puts it, the prequels suck ass.

And so it was not expected–come on, life-changing, people–this morning when Craig gleefully pranced into the house today, brandishing his online reservation for a ticket to see the new film, Star Wars: The Force Awakens, in mid-December. What was maybe more unexpected was, despite my affliction, we spent a few minutes in deep discussion about the implications of The Force Awakens.

Well, that’s not entirely true. We mostly made fun of the dumbasses who are having a conniption fit over the alleged lack of straight, white male characters in the movie:

Specifically, the #BoycottStarWarsVII “movement” (and I’m skeptical of calling it that, for reasons I’ll get into shortly) takes umbrage with the fact that The Force Awakens‘ cast features not one, but multiple people of color, a situation a small but vocal minority sees as evidence of a “white genocide” in the Star Wars universe, perpetuated by Abrams, a white-hating Hollywood Jew.

Oh, dear. Of course, the linked article goes on to note that the dumbasses in question are a vocal minority (the irony!). But wait, there’s more, and it’s hilarious!

Another Twitter account, calling itself “Captain Confederacy,” similarly griped that “SJWs [Social Justice Warriors] complain about White artists ‘misappropriating’ culture created by blacks but then celebrate a non-White Star Wars.” Yet another complaint read that the movie should be boycotted “because it’s nothing more than a social justice propaganda piece that alienates it’s core audience of young white males.”

laughingAs a professional Social Justice Warrior (it’s true: I get paid to help bring about social justice), I applaud this ninja-like stealth attack on young white males. You’ll have to excuse me while I go bathe in the tears of the patriarchy.

Anyway, in between bouts of hysterical laughter, Craig did explain to me (ignorant as I am about the racial vagaries of the Star Wars films) that these yahoos have failed to remember a few things:

  • The Stormtroopers in the original Star Wars films were clones, and Craig tells me the one guy took off his helmet and looked sort of Hawaiian. Which means all the Stormtroopers had to have been Pacific Native Islanders or something, I guess.
  • James Earl Jones was the voice of Darth Vader. Of course, the actual character of Darth Vader was a white guy (played by Hayden Christensen) . . . which kind of means that Darth Vader is mixed race in a way.
  • Billy Dee Williams played Lando Calrissian in movies five and six.
  • Samuel L. Jackson played Mace Windu in the prequels.

Well, there are more . . . trust me (okay, trust Craig), there are many more non-white actors in the Star Wars films, which makes the big old whiny baby JJ Abrams hates white people guys look pretty silly. Okay fine, they look pretty silly all the time (I mean, come on, who remembers the stink these same dorks made about Mad Max?). Plus, last time I checked there are still plenty of white guys in the new Star Wars trailer. So . . . ?

I will say one thing for them: they have made it possible for my divided house to stand. After all, nothing brings people together more than making fun of racist morons.

romance

 

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Your Heart, As It Was Then, Will Be On Fire

It seems like ages ago now that The Trajectory of Dreams was published, but this morning that’s all I can think of. An article on NPR talked about the “unexpected revival” of Russian poet Anna Akhmatova, a poet whose work I used in my novel (along with Ilya Kutik). I think of Akhmatova, and I think of Zory Korchagin leaving Lela, the main character, a note at the tea shop she frequents.

akhmatova

That “bit of poem” is from Akhmatova’s poem, “You Will Hear Thunder.”

I was thrilled to see the unexpected revival is the result of a new album by Iris Dement, an American country and folk singer, who has set some of Akhmatova’s work to music. The new album is The Trackless Woods. Do check out the article for some information about Akhmatova’s life, and here’s a sample of the album–

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This is the End, Beautiful Friend

GonnaDie

Happy last day on Earth! A Christian broadcaster who apparently lives a few towns over from me has predicted that today is the end of the world.

As reported by The Guardian, McCann believes there is a “strong likelihood” that the world will end on this date, but he added there’s an “unlikely possibility” that it will not.

At any rate, Armageddon seems to have had no effect on the eBible Fellowship’s broadcast plans – even on Thursday, the bible readings and discussions are planned to continue as normal, according to their online schedule.

Unlikely possibility, eh? The fact that the schedule continues past the doomsday date suggests a pretty high level of uncertainty. I’m not exactly impressed by that degree of commitment.

For all the doomsdays I’ve survived—easily three or four dozen by this time in my life—I can be sure of one of two things: people who believe there’s a mysterious overlord in the sky planning to zap us into oblivion have terrible prognosticating and/or analytical skills, or that we’re all absolutely unkillable. Granted, today’s not over, but I like my odds of surviving to pay my electric bill another day.

Let’s just say, for the sake of argument, that McCann is right. We’re all gonna die today. It’s a little bit depressing that I’ll be spending my last hours at work. If I knew—I mean, absolutely for sure knew—that today was it, my co-workers would have to do without me. I’d grab my husband and hop a plane to a place I’ve never been before, someplace exciting and beautiful, and wait for the end while drinking wine and laughing.

The end oseekingforafriendfortheendoftheworldf the world is popular-ish in films, so it’s interesting to see how things play out in the imagination of others. Seeking a Friend for the End of the World (2012) has lots of rioting, lots of sex and drugs, lots of nostalgia. Then there’s Last Night (1998), which is kind of the same, but with more suicide. It’s not quite as popular in novels. I mean, yeah, for a while there you couldn’t swing a dead cat without hitting a dystopian or post-apocalyptic novel, but the world as we know it ending and the actual world ending are too different things. It’s hard to kill all your characters—a lot of readers aren’t down with that.

So today is the end of the world. How are you spending your last days?

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Reading Iceland

My husband and I will be in Iceland in five short weeks. While I’m excited to (I hope) see the Northern Lights and go on a glacier hike, there’s something really fascinating about Iceland’s literary scene that I’m looking forward to seeing first-hand.

Apparently, one in ten Icelanders will publish a book during their lifetime (so says the BBC). Public benches have barcodes on them, so you listen to a story on your phone while you hang out. Reykjavik is a UNESCO City of Literature. There are several literary festivals throughout the year as well, including Reykjavik Reads in October. This year the festival is dedicated to literature by women, something I’m pretty thrilled about. Even better, a new anthology of writings by Reykjavik women of Icelandic and foreign origin will be published for the festival. I’m hoping to pick up a copy while I’m in the country. Reading is important–the literacy rate in the country hovers around 99 percent.

In advance of that, though, I’m currently reading The Creator by Icelandic author Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir, which is an odd drama starring a guy who makes sex toys and a woman with an anorexic daughter. Typographical Era loved the novel, so how could I say no to that? After all, they also voted my novel, The Trajectory of Dreams, one of the best of 2013 and a novel they’d like to see made into a film, so I know what kind of novels are on their radar! The Creator is not what I would call a quick read, but it’s definitely enjoyable. Plus, it’s interesting to see how American culture wheedles its way into Icelandic culture.  The references Mínervudóttir uses in her work are sometimes surprising.

A few  years ago I read Fish in the Sky, a YA novel by Icelander Fridrik Erlings, which I quite liked. Now that I think of it, there’s an interesting through-line in terms of feel that runs through both The Creator and Fish in the Sky. Maybe while I’m in Reykjavik I can pick up a few more YA novels written by locals, and see if the feel holds. In the meantime, if you’ve got Icelandic favorites, do let me know. With five weeks to go, and five hours on the plane to Reykjavik, I’ll have plenty of time to read!

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Embracing Porteños: Buenos Aires

I emerged from Ezeiza International Airport this past Saturday into blissfully cool air. Philadelphia, when I left, was nearly tropical, but Buenos Aires weather reminded me of an early spring day. The woman from the booth where I arranged transport into the city pulled her jacket closed and shivered. She glanced at me–in my sleeveless shirt–and said, “Esta muy frió.”

I almost laughed.

The ride into the city revealed first crumbling high rise buildings with drying laundry strung between windows. My driver was fairly conservative, given the motorcycles and cars whizzing by. Traffic lanes are only a suggestion, apparently. The high rise buildings gave way to a more typical urban landscape of squat blocks of stores mounted by apartments overhead. There are still many high rises in the city, though. The architecture and general state of many of the buildings reminded me of old school public housing here in Philadelphia–the type of buildings that our housing authority is razing in favor of garden apartments. And it isn’t to say that there isn’t new construction type of housing apparent. Overwhelmingly, though, the impression I got was of aging buildings and architecture, of things that needed upkeep and maintenance.

keys_cropAs we moved into the Recoleta neighborhood, where my apartment was, the aging buildings seemed more charming. I’ve heard Buenos Aires called the Paris of the South or the Paris of the Americas, and in Recoleta I could see it–the architecture and the look of it and the corner bistros are similar. My Airbnb host, Inés, showed me around her apartment, a high-ceilinged place with parquet floors and a bidet in the bathroom. On leaving she did the double cheek kiss, something common for porteños. The keys to my apartment were skeleton keys, which was something I found hard to get used to. During my first trip out of the apartment, I nearly called Inés to let me back in because it was taking me so long to unlock the door!

So, what did I do for three days in Buenos Aires (BA)? After washing off too many hours of airport stink, I caught a cab over to the Colegiales barrio for a Graffitimundo street art tour led by the fabulous Ana Montenegro. I took the North City tour, which included urban art in the Chacarita, Villa Crespo and Palermo barrios as well, and now I’m wishing I would have taken the South City tour, as well (and not only to enjoy the amazing weather). Street art in Buenos Aires isn’t illegal as it is in other places, and Ana stressed that in BA its not gang-related; rather, it starts with middle class kids with access to disposable income and is more about communications and art in public spaces. Philadelphia is widely believed to have one of the largest public art collections in the U.S., including art murals, so I’m used to seeing this kind of art regularly–however, our art is sanctioned and regulated, etc. Quite different from the free expression in Buenos Aires. It reminds me a lot more of the street art in Amsterdam, which in large part is a more uninhibited reaction to political and cultural issues. Here are a few of my favorite pieces from the tour:

 

Saturday night was dinner at Casa SaltShaker, one of BA’s closed door restaurants. Recently, I’ve heard the term “sociable hermit” tossed around, which describes me fairly well–the idea of intentionally putting myself in a potentially painful social experiment where I’m forced to interact with strangers fills me with dread. I am not a great networker, for sure. But the reviews were favorable for Casa SaltShaker, and so I snagged a spot at Saturday night’s dinner. Guillaume from Montreal and I arrived at the same time, the first guests. Shortly thereafter a guy who had just graduated from Rice University in Houston showed up with his parents, who live in Charleston, SC, followed by Simonetta, a German citizen who has lived for many years in Boston and NYC. Just as we’d sat down to start eating, Dearbhla from Northern Ireland arrived, and that was our complete dinner party. I remain shocked at how much fun I had, and I don’t think it was just my relative lack of sleep or all the wine that made it so. Dan Perlman, the chef, and his husband Henry have an amazing apartment, and Dan’s food was fantastic. A full write-up of the dinner can be found here. My favorite dish was the squid salad, and I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to try to recreate it at home.

Sunday morning I spend hours wandering through Recoleta cemetery (during which I had a ton of ideas for future plots) and exploring the Feria de Artesanos de Plaza Francia, a weekly arts/crafts fair just outside the cemetery. My afternoon plan to check out the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires (MALBA) and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes was thwarted, though–unbeknownst to me, there was a mayoral run-off election that day, and all the museums were closed as a result. More wandering ensued. I hung out a bit next to the Floralis Genérica sculpture in a park, enjoying the sun, and then I managed to step into a hole and trip ass over tea kettle. Klutzes unite! It’s always a real joy to fall over in front of a crowd, especially when one of them is an insanely hot jogger who, of course, beelined over to me with rapid fire Spanish inquiries into my health and well-being. No injuries to report, except to my wounded pride!

 

I did get to visit MALBA the next day. The most well-known piece in the museum is one of Frida Kahlo’s self-portraits, but there was also a wonderful Rogelio Polesello exhibit. MALBA is tiny, and there is an admission price (most other BA museums are free) of 75 pesos, or the equivalent of $8 USD. Despite being a small museum, $8 seems about right. After spending quality time at MALBA, I took a cab to the Palermo Viejo barrio and walked around. I also was able to visit El Ateneo, a bookstore that also makes those listicles of book shops you have to see before you die. I considered, just for a moment, moving in and living quietly for the rest of my life in this gorgeous place.

el ateneo sm

I was going to putz around Recoleta a little more, but a look at the flight loads convinced me it was a good time try to leave. Non-rev flying (flying stand-by) can be a tricky business, one that requires a certain degree of flexibility. Like a moron, I flew to BA smack dab in the middle of winter school holidays, which meant that there were hardly any empty/unsold seats on planes to come by. I had a plan, of course–if I couldn’t get out of BA, I was going to take a ferry across the Río de la Plata to Montevideo, Uruguay and fly out from there. But the flight load looked good in BA for Monday night, so I quickly packed up and cabbed it to the airport. The non-rev overlords were good to me, and I was able to get home with no problem at all. Almost 24 hours in the air for three days in Buenos Aires. It was worth it, and I’ll definitely return to Argentina (if for no other reason than to get a better return on investment on the $160 reciprocity fee necessary to enter the country, which is good for 10 years).

This trip was my first in South America, and–as I tend to do–I did a lot of research beforehand. One thing that kept popping up was how dangerous Buenos Aires is. Pickpocketing, muggings, robberies, scams, even kidnappings. Even the U.S. State Department cautions Americans about the crime. As a single traveler, I was slightly concerned. Maybe all the criminals take vacation during the winter months, because I had no problems at all. I walked alone at midnight through the deserted streets of Recoleta to get home from my dinner at Casa SaltShaker, half expecting to be abducted or jumped, but there was nothing but cool breezes and the sound of traffic. It was lovely.

I’d also been told that Porteños are arrogant and rude, another thing I absolutely did not witness. Everyone I met was incredibly nice. My Spanish skills are pretty meager, but even people with limited English skills went out of their way to help me understand and, you know, talk to me. One of my cab drivers asked me out to coffee, and not in a lecherous way (I don’t think, anyway). Meeting people was easy. Being in BA was easy. Easier than I thought.

For those who fly non-rev, as I do, I have a few tips. The first is above–the thing about ferrying to Montevideo and flying out from that airport, which is supposed to be amazing. Secondly, I’m told the Ezeiza airport in BA can be a real bear to get through security–like it can take upwards of three hours. Admittedly, it did take maybe 2.5 hours to get through passport control and customs on the way in, but I breezed through security on the way out (maybe 20 minutes, tops) . . . all due to the fact that I gave myself extra time to get through, and likely beat the crowds that descend for overnight flights to the States. Third, when you get to the airport’s international terminal there is likely not a special check-in desk for your airline; rather, there is a bank of check-in kiosks that cater to multiple airlines. And fourth: do not travel to Buenos Aires in mid-July; as I also mentioned above, this is when Argentinian kids have their winter break. Fly in June or fly in August because your chances will be better. I say I flew out with “no problem,” but trust me–it was a little hairy.

 

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Sleepytime

Sleep and I have a funny relationship. Like everyone else, I love to sleep, but it also makes me a little nervous. Part of it is the concept of dreaming (don’t tell me Freddy Kreuger doesn’t pop into your head sometimes), part of it is the idea of being unconscious for eight hours without being brain damaged, and part of it is how many bad things can happen to you or around you when you’re sleeping. Maybe that’s a little paranoid, but I know I’m not the only person to find sleep kind of scary.

Why else do little kids try to avoid falling asleep?

And why else do so many writers make sleep an integral facet of their novels? Van Winkles recently published a list of their favorite novels and stories that revolve around sleep–work by Haruki Murakami, Chuck Palahniuk, Stephen King, and me. Yep, The Trajectory of Dreams and its treatment of sleep got a nod (no pun intended). I can almost hear my main character, Lela White, laughing maniacally. Okay, she would totally never do that. More like she’d hunt down the author of the list, break into his house, and stare at him while he slept.

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